GEK Wiki / Assembly Instructions for the GEK v4 Kit
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Assembly Instructions for the GEK v4 Kit

Page history last edited by jay@... 11 years, 3 months ago

Rev: 4.3; Date: 041112

return to How to Build and Run the GEK Gasifier

GEK Licensing

 

Basic GEK Assembly Instructions

v4.x


      

 

     The GEK Level IV kit arrives with everything you need for the full Basic GEK Gasifier system. The Basic GEK is typically sent as two barrels, and the GEK TOTTI is typically sent in 3 barrels.  The GEK TOTTI is the combination of the Basic GEK with the Auger/Drying Bucket and Pyrocoil add-ons. If you have the GEK TOTTI, refer to these instructions below for the Basic GEK and note the call outs for the GEK TOTTI as there are just a few steps that are different from the Basic GEK. After the Basic GEK, refer to the GEK TOTTI Assembly Instructions located here: http://wiki.gekgasifier.com/w/page/6123832/TOTTI%20Assembly%20Page-Pyrocoil%20and%20Auger

 

     The following instructions for the 4.x kits which are mainly divided between the painted mild steel (4.1 and 4.2 versions) and the stainless steel (4.3 and up) GEK version categories. If you have the stainless steel GEK Gasifier, first read the sections then refer to the call outs for the "GEK version 4.3 and up".  


Table of Contents:

I. Introduction and Assembly Notes

II. Useful Tools for Assembly

III. Gas Cowling

IV. Reactor 

V. Cyclone

VI. Ejector Venturi

VII. Manometer

VIII. Thermocouples

IX. Reactor Lid

X. Packed Bed Gas Filter

XI. Hopper Barrel


 

I. Introduction and Assembly Notes

A) Component Varieties

  • Please note that the pictures are only representations of the components you may have. It is typical that we make subtle changes to the components within the version as we improve the design. These changes may include (but not limited to) number of bungs or ports on a component (ie: Side Door, Reactor Lid), size of bungs on a component (ie: Gas Cowling), color (ie: Reactor, Reactor Lid), or bung location (ie: Gas Sampling Ports), or threaded or non threaded components (ie: Reactor Instrumentation Ports). These subtleties in the components are more or less considered the same part in the instructions, and typically don't change the overall system flow or the positioning of the component. 

 

B) Gaskets and Seals

  • All of the flanges, gas connections, lids, covers and ports must have gas tight seals. Because the GEK Gasifier runs under a vacuum, a compromised seal will leak air into the system instead of leaking CO out of the system. However, large enough holes in the system has the potential to leak enough air into the system which may provide a stoichiometric mixture of producer gas and air inside the system. While very rare, this could potentially lead to the potential of explosions inside the system. The pressure release valves and openings in the system are motivated in ways to allow potential over pressure to exit safely. 
  • The first step to preventing the above, is to make sure all of the connections during the assembly process are secure, gas-tight seals. We have provided a different variety of gaskets, tapes and sealants with each of the versions we send out. Before assembly, locate all of the gasket materials mentioned in this section and consider the following as "apply gasket" is mentioned in the instructions below. Refer to these notes below as they are considered to be more up-to-date regardless of the type of gasketing method depicted in the pictures below. 
    • Silicone Gaskets: We are phasing in the orange silicone gaskets because they are longer lasting and durable. You will want to prioritize using these if they are provided. To use these gaskets, apply a thin layer of the red RTV sealant to one flange and add the gasket. Secure the gasket in place by bolting on the mating flange. Tighten securely, but do not over tighten so that the silicone gasket bulges out from the edge. RTV may squeeze out, but it will be easier to clean up after it is dry in 24 hours. 
    • Ceramic Tape and High Temp Mortar: On the flanges and mates larger than 7'' in diameter, use the ceramic tape and high temp mortar. Use the sticky side of the ceramic tape to secure to one flange while keeping it flat along the flange surface. A common mistake is for the ceramic tape to be allowed to ripple up on the surface, ensure that the ceramic tape lays completely flat along the flange surface.  Use a drill (stepper drill bits are the best) and clear out the ceramic tape from the bolt holes so that the bolt may pass through. (Note: Some of the flanges have threaded bolt holes (ie: Monorator Ring, Reduction Bell). Instead of using the ceramic tape on these flanges directly, adhere to the mating flange so you may drill out the bolt holes without otherwise damaging the threads).  Using a caulking gun, apply one line of the high temp mortar on the surface of the ceramic tape. Secure the mating flange using the bolts. Make sure everything is in place when using the high temp mortar, for it permanently hardens and is difficult to move the components afterwards. Clean up the high temp mortar as soon as you can, for it is more difficult to clean after it sets in 24 hours.
    • Other Sealants: When attaching any of the flex lines (orange silicone flex line or the stainless steel corrugated flex gas lines) be sure to use the RTV or another sealant with the hose clamps, U-bolts, or couplers to ensure a gas tight connection at these joints. 
    • Weather Stripping: We have sent a few types of weather stripping typically either brown or black. The weather stripping is convenient for low temperature flanges with frequent use (Hopper Barrel Lid) or small diameters that the wider gaskets are unable bend around (Cyclone Tube Plate). Some weather stripping sent with the kits have had different shapes that fit specific edges of various components. 

C) Plumbing Threads

  • Remember to use the teflon tape for all plumbing and threaded connections. This will ensure a gas tight and fluid tight connection and will make it easier to un-thread the plumbing connections in the future.   

D) Bolted Flanges

  • Tighten the bolts on all flanges in a star pattern similar to how one tightens the lug nuts on a car. Tightening the bolts in series will warp or bend the flange which may damage the flange and compromise the gasket without creating a gas tight connection.

 II. Useful Tools for Assembly

  • crescent wrench

  • (ideally) drill/impact driver and drill to socket adapter

  • 9/16" and 1/2'' wrench or socket (for leg nuts)

  • Utility knife

  • flat head and philips head screw driver

  • scissors

  • caulking gun 

  • bailing wire 


III. Gas Cowling 

A) Attach Legs                                                                                                                         

  • Turn the Gas Cowling upside down. 
  • Place Rocket Legs on the protruding threaded studs, and tighten 9/16ths nuts to hold them in place. The Rocket Legs come with the mounting tabs bent in two different directions.  Install the matching Rocket Legs across from each other alternating the tabs. 

 

    

 

B) Gaskets

  • Apply gasket to the top flange of the Reactor.

 

      

 

c) Cowling Bungs 

  • Use a .5in plug for the Gas Out Bung on the square Gas Outlet of the Gas Cowling.

 

    

 

*GEK Version 4.3 and up: 

  • The Gas Cowling will not have a Gas Out Bung pictured in here, instead it is located on the top of the Cyclone.
  • Populate the 1/2 bung with the 1/2 plug on the Cyclone.

 

 

D) Insulation and Stainless Steel Jacket for the Gas Cowling

  • Be sure to wear gloves to handle the fiberglass insulation.
  • Wrap the insulation material twice around the inside of the Gas Cowling.
  • It will sit above the bolt heads that are welded inside for the Rocket Legs. The top of the insulation will come up to bottom of the square Gas Outlet. 
  • Make sure that the fiberglass insulation is not covering the opening of the Gas Outlet.  

 

       

 

  • There are two Stainless Steel Jackets, one for the Gas Cowling and the other for the Reactor Vessel. The Stainless Steel Jacket with the larger diameter will fit inside the Gas Cowling in the following steps. 
  • Stainless Steel Jacket will go into the Gas Cowling against the fiberglass insulation. Be careful not to push the fiberglass insulation down into the Gas Cowling, this is a common mistake. Its easier to roll it up tight and then let it expand against the walls. 
  • Match the pattern of the Stainless Steel Jacket with the ports in the Gas Cowling.  
  • Expand the Stainless Steel Jacket out as much as possible against the Gas Cowling walls. There are three groupings of small holes in the Stainless Steel Jacket. Use a small piece of bailing wire, or you may use the small sheet metal screws if they are included to hold the Stainless Steel Jacket together expanded as much as possible against the wall of the Gas Cowling. 
  • Cut the fiberglass insulation where the ports on the Gas Cowling and Stainless Steel Jacket align. Make sure the fiberglass insulation is not covering up the Gas Outlet or the 1/2'' Reactor Pressure port.
  • Cut slits in the fiberglass insulation to create a flap in the Ash Port of the Gas Cowling. 

      

            

 

*GEK Version 4.3 and up:

  • The Stainless Steel Jacket will have holes around the circumference at the bottom. Populate these holes with the 1/2 long 5/16ths bolts by inserting them in from the outside. 
  • Attach a nut to secure it to the Stainless Steel Jacket.
  • These will act as the Grate Support which will replace the Grate Support Table component shown in the next pictures.
  • Add the fiberglass insulation and the Stainless Steel Jacket into the Gas Cowling just like in the instructions above.  

 

 

 

'

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

*For the 10kw and 20kW GEK:

  • You will notice two sets of holes on the Gas Cowling Jacket. For the 20kw GEKs, use the lower holes, for the 10kw GEKs use the holes at the top for the bolts.
  • Please note that the Grate Shaker Door will slide onto the Grate Shake Port and will locate with the Ash Grate tab inside the hanger on the Grate Shake Door. (Some versions of the GEK units were sent out that may have an alignment issue with the Grate Shake Handle that is easily remedied, you may swap the bolts on the Gas Cowling Jacket to the other sets of holes to correct for this, or you may cut out a section on the Grate Shaker Door hanger).

 

 

E) Ash Grate

  • Thread the bolts into the barrel nuts on the Grate Support Ring.  This will make the table in the base of the Gas Cowling for the Ash Grate.   
  • Adjust the bolts so that the table height will be 5 and 7/8 inches once placed in the bottom of the Gas Cowling.  Measure at each bolt leg to make sure the table will be level in the bottom of the Gas Cowling.  Once the Ash Grate is placed on the top, the grate surface will be 6" from the bottom of the Gas Cowling (which makes the ash bin) and 2" below the bottom of the Reactor Vessel (which makes the space for gas to pass outward from the Reactor). 
  • Place the Grate Table down into the Gas Cowling, taking care to index the tab into the Ash Port.
  • Place the Ash Grate on top of the Grate Support Ring, with the Shaker Rod extending outward through the smaller ash port opening.

 

 

          

 

*GEK Version 4.3 and up:

  • Instead of the having feet on the Grate Support Ring, the bolts you added to the Stainless Steel Jacket in the previous step will provide support for the Grate Support Ring
  • Find the perforated Grate Support Ring, and set it on top of the bolts on the Stainless Steel Jacket.
  • The Ash Grate will lay on top of the Grate Support Ring with the tab locating into the Grate Shake Port (the smaller square port).
  • (Only the Grate Support Ring is shown in the first two pictures, the Grate is then placed on top in the second two pictures below). 

 

              

 

 


IV. Reactor 

A) Gas Lines

  • Turn GEK Reactor Vessel upside down.
  • Tighten one Air Line into the elbow coupling at the bottom of the Reactor.
  • Bend the Air Line clockwise around the outside of the next coupling then continue around to the second coupling. Then start wrapping the air line clockwise downward around the outside of the Reactor. 

 

         

 

  • Bend a 90 degree angle about four or five inches from the end of the Air Line and screw it onto the coupling on the Reactor's flange.
  • Repeat process until all five Air Lines are installed.
  • Make sure not to overlap the Air Lines, they should all fit without crossing.
  • Turn Reactor right side up.

 

        

           

B) Air Nozzle Supports

  • Screw in 6'' x 1/2" pipe nipples into threaded couples inside the Reactor's bottom plate. 
  • Place a ring of ceramic clay around the base of the pipe nipple and the top of the pipe nipple, this will help secure the Air Nozzles.  

 

      

 

C) Hourglass Reduction Bell

  • Use High Temp Mortar around bottom plate of the Reactor to the inside of the bolt holes.
  • Add the ceramic tape on the underside of the bottom flange of the Reduction Bell.  When the ceramic tape passes over the bolt holes of the Reduction Bell flange, cut a slit partially through the tape (do not cut all the way through) to create a gap so the bolt will be able to pass through the ceramic tape.
  • Cut away the ceramic tape from the notches in the Reduction Bell flange, this will allow the Air Nozzles to pass through. 

 

         

 

  • Place the hourglass Reduction Bell into the Reactor and align the Thermocouple Protection Tube with one of the .5'' Instrumentation Ports at the top of the Reactor. 
  • Tilt the Reactor to the side and use the 3/4 x 5/16 ths bolts to hold the Reduction Bell into place. 

 

                       

 

D) Stainless Steel Reactor Jacket     

  • Use bailing wire or the small sheet metal screws (if the are provided) to attach the ends of the stainless
  • Reactor Jacket together.  If you use the screws, make sure the head of the screw is facing inward toward the center.  There are three different holes in the jacket that you may use to adjust the diameter of the jacket if needed. 
  • Slide the stainless Reactor Jacket into the Reactor aligning the notches with the Instrumentation Port and Ignition Ports at the top of the Reactor. 
  • This creates an annular slot space to hold a granular insulation.  

 

      

 

E) Air Inlet Nozzles 

  • Screw the 3/8" caps with holes on to the Air Nozzles.
  • Add high temp mortar to the top of the air nozzle supports. Do not place high temp mortar inside the nozzle tube. When you slide the nozzle over the nozzle support, you will want to make absolutely sure that there is no high temp mortar blocking or restricting the pathway of air through the nozzle core.  
  • The cap of the Air Nozzle will tend to fit on the inside of the Reduction Bell.
  • Orient Air Nozzle so it points in between adjacent two nozzles and directly toward the center of the Reactor.
  • Once all of the Air Nozzles are installed, they will make a five sided star, all pointing to the center of the Reduction Bell opening. It is important that the nozzles are centered to ensure symmetry in the reaction. 
  • Make sure the Air Nozzles are aligned before the high temp mortar sets, when it sets it will be very difficult to move.   

 

      

 

  • Place the 1'' cap on the Air Inlet Port of the Reactor. 

 

 

F) Reactor Flow Insert

  • Place the Reactor Taper into the Reactor. The Reactor Taper will allow biomass to flow better through the Reactor and prevent bridging. 
  • Orientation: There is a small hole where the thermocouple will thread through. Make sure this lines up with the Instrumentation Port and the Thermocouple Protection Tube described in Step IV.C for the Reduction Bell. Refer to Step VII, A Thermocouples for installing the thermocouples.   

 

 

 

G) Lighting Port

  • Assemble the Lighting Port with the 7'' plumbing nipple.
  • Screw 1/2" elbows onto both ends of the 7" nipple. Align them so they are facing in opposite directions of one another. On one of the elbows, screw in the 3" nipple. once assembled, it will look like a "L".

 

   

 

*For the GEK TOTTI: 

  • If you have the GEK TOTTI, which includes the Pyrocoil, you will install the Lighting Port through a port located on the body of the Pyrocoil.
  • The port of the Reactor referenced here will need to be caped with a 2 x 1/2'' nipple and 1/2'' cap which will slide into the port of the Reactor. Use High Temp Mortar around this plumbing assembly to keep it sealed. *For the GEK TOTTI ONLY* 

*GEK Version 4.3 and up:

  • The port on the Reactor for the recent versions are threaded. Simply use a 1/2 plumbing cap to cover this port.  

 

 

  • Slide the 3" long nipple through the Lighting Port on the Reactor. The 7" nipple will lie along the inside of the inner vessel of the Reactor and the elbow at the bottom will be right next to one of the Air Nozzles.
  • Be sure to seal around the port with hight temp mortar to prevent air leakage.  
  • The high temp mortar will set over 24 hours or so. Make sure you have lined it up perfectly, because it can be very difficult to rearrange any components that are fixed with the high temp mortar. 

 

         

 

H) Reactor into Gas Cowling and Adjust Ash Grate  

  • Insert the Reactor into the Gas Cowling.
  • Align the Reactor and the Gas Cowling's bolt holes so that the Lighting Port is at the front of the Gas Cowling. (Orientation: The front is indicated by the 1/2" close nipple on the Gas Cowling vessel).
  • This can be a tight fit! Try to expand the Stainless Steel Jacket in the Gas Cowling as much as possible so the Reactor will fit. (If you are having difficulties doing this, you may take out one wrap of the fiberglass insulation sheet and use one layer). 
  • Make sure that the bottom of the Reactor is 2" from the Grate. Measure from the Reactor bottom flange (not the Air Lines.)  
  • Tighten nuts and bolts around the flange.

 

            

  

I) Ash Port and Grate Shake Port

  • The Ash Port Door has three bungs that allow grate level options for experimentation. For the level suggested above, populate the top bung with the Grate Shake Handle and use the .5'' plugs to populate the other two ports.  
  • Use the thick fiber insulation to fill the insulation pocket on the inside of the Ash Grate Door.  

 

         

 

  • Thread the Grate Shake Handle into the welded nut onto the Ash Grate. Line up the Ash Port Door on the Ash Port of the Gas Cowling. 
  • You may need to adjust the height of the Ash Grate by turning the bolt feet of the Ash Grate to make sure the Ash Grate Support feet are at a height that the Grate Shake Handle fits through the compression fitting on the door without jamming. 

   

         

*GEK Version 4.3 and up:

  • The Gas Cowling will have two ports. The larger Ash Port will be for cleaning the bottom of the Reactor and the Ash Grate. The Ash Port Door is represented by the component on the left in the picture below. 

 

         

       

  • The smaller port on the Gas Cowling will be the Ash Grate Shaker Port. This door will include a round connection protruding. Apply gasket and attach it to the Gas Cowling.
  • Use some RTV sealant around the outside of the circular connection on the Ash Grate Shaker Port for the connection. Use a hose clamp to attach the short section of the orange flex tubing (as seen in the pictures of the earlier version).
  • Slide the Ash Grate Shaker Handle (the component on the right in the picture above) through and thread it into the bolt of the Ash Grate.  
  • Add RTV between the Ash Grate Shaker Handle and the orange flex line before securing it with a second hose clamp. 

 


V. Cyclone 

A) Cyclone Body

  • Apply gasket and attach the Cyclone to the Gas Cowling with the 3/4 x 5/16'' bolts. Tighten.  Be careful not to bend the flange.
  • Apply orange silicone gasket to the top of the Cyclone flange.  

 

        

  • Place Cyclone Tube Plate, with the longer tube downward into Cyclone and tighten with 3/4'' x 5/16'' bolts.
  • Apply sealant around the shorter tube of the Cyclone Tube Plate, and secure the silicone flex tube with a hose clamp. 

 

                

B) Mason Jar

  • Place silicone RTV on the inside of the jar lid. Seat the orange silicone gasket into the groove of the jar lid. Make sure the lid is able to securely screw onto the jar. 
  • The Mason Jar Adapter Plate with 1" close nipple will fit inside the mason jar lid ring, nipple up.
  • Screw onto jar.
  • Screw into 1" coupling at bottom of Cyclone.
  • Make sure that this is a gas tight seal 

 

   

 

*GEK Version 4.3 and up: 

  • If an orange silicone gasket was included in your kit that matches this flange connection, you will want to use the RTV sealant on the adapter. 
  • Make sure this is a gas tight seal.  

VI. Ejector Venturi

  • Assemble the Ejector Venturi assembly as shown. Be sure to tape the threads except for the connections near the Swirl Burner. 
  • There is a 2'' x 1/2 plumbing piece that is pictured below that is threaded in the inside. Use this piece to attach the ejector nozzle in the inside of the ejector venturi.  
  • Partially assemble the plumbing around the T-cross as shown below.
  • Attach the Swirl Burner to the end of the Ejector Venturi assembly.
  • You will need an air compressor capable of 4-6 cfm to drive the GEK Gasifier with the Ejector Venturi.

 

  

    

 

 

 

VII. Manometer

  • Locate the 1/2'' male nipple on the outside of the Gas Cowling.
  • Attach the 1/2" plumbing T, screw the 1/2'' close nipple at the end of the 1/2'' plumbing T.
  • Attach the 1/2'' - 3/4'' reducer on the top of the 1/2'' plumbing T, and then the 1/4" brass barb into the reducer. 

 

  • Place the Manometer face plate onto the close nipple and let the top of its bracket lay underneath the flange of the Gas Cowling. The 5/16 bolt that holds the Reactor to the Gas Cowling will also hold in place the bracket of the Manometer at this point. Do not put the bracket of the Manometer in between the Reactor and the Gas Cowling's flanges. This will cause leaking.
  • Thread the lock nut onto the 1/2" close nipple at the end of the 1/2'' plumbing T, and then add a 1/2'' cap at the end. 

 

          

 

  • Insert one of the clear tubes into the middle hole of the Manometer bracket, feed it down through to the brass barb at the bottom.
  • The other end of the clear tube will follow along the front of the Manometer face plate, loop at the bottom, and its end will barely poke up through the hole on the left. This is the Reactor Pressure Channel.
  • Loop the zip tie through the Manometer and around both parts of the clear tube, part of the tube in front and looped back behind.
  • The filter Manometer will be on the right. Start with the tip at the right hole on the Manometer face plate bracket, feed it down behind the Manometer, create a loop at the bottom and bring it up in front of the Manometer face plate. Secure with zip ties, as before.
  • Remember, there are two different pressure ports, so there are two different vacuum tubes. Make sure you have enough length from the first manometer, then cut the length to make the second manometer.  

 

     

 

  • Thread in the 1/2'' - 3/4'' reducer into one of the ports at the top of the Gas Filter (there are two). Thread in the brass barb into the plumbing reducer. The long end of the tube for the filter Manometer connects to this brass barb.
  • Notice that there are two more ports on the Gas Filter. Place two plugs into these ports. These two extra ports can be used for gas sampling, wet scrubbing and recycling systems, temperature, or pressure ports.

   

      

 

*GEK Versions 4.3 and up: 

  • The brass barb, as the pressure port for the Gas Filter, will thread into the top of the Gas Filter Lid pointing upwards. 

 

 

 


VIII. Granular Insulation

  • Fill the space between the Reduction bell and the Reactor Jacket with granular insulation right up to about an inch below the Reduction Bell- do not fill it any higher than this. Be sure that you do not get any granular insulation onto the Ash Grate! The insulation will fuse in these high temperatures if left inside the Ash Grate or the bottom of the Reactor. If you do get any in the bottom, vacuum it out or clean it out through the Ash Grate Door on the bottom of the Gas Cowling. 
  • Add a granular insulation between the annular space between the reactor wall and the reactor jacket. This space is smaller in our earlier units, it is easiest to take two sheets of paper and pour in between the sheets to funnel it in. 
  • For granular insulation you might use perlite, pumice, sand, charcoal, kaowool, or the like.   

 

     


 

IX. Thermocouples

A) Top of Reduction Temperature

  • Drill a 1/16'' hole into one of the 1/2'' caps. 
  • Attach it to the 3'' x 1/2'' pipe nipple.
  • Thread the 1/16'' dia. longer thermocouple through the cap and pass the tip of the thermocouple through the pipe nipple.  

 

  

 

  • Pass the thermocouple assembly into the Instrumentation Port of the Reactor.
  • Push the tip of the thermocouple through the Thermocouple Protection Tube attached to the Reduction Bell. Make sure the tip is as far into the Thermocouple Protection Tube as possible. Also make sure the rest of the thermocouple is flush along the side of the Reactor so as not to disrupt the flow of biomass.  If the Reactor Jacket came with a slot, slide the thermocouple behind the slot and up under the reactor taper. 
  • Hold the thermocouple in a fixed position in the thermocouple protection tube by adding a small dab of high temp mortar at the opening of the thermocouple protection tube.

 

*GEK Version 4.3 and up:

  • Some of these kits will have compression fittings with threaded Instrumentation Port without needing to drill the cap like above or needing to use the 2 x 1/2 plumbing fitting above. Use the plumbing reducer and the compression fitting instead.

 

          

 

B) Bottom of Reduction Temperature

  • Drill a 1/8'' hole into one of the 1/2'' caps.
  • This cap will attach to the Manometer pipe assembly attached to the Gas Cowling.
  • Thread the thermocouple through the Gas Cowling and into the Reactor.
  • The thermocouple should come into the bottom of the Reduction Bell only an inch out into the opening. You may need to bend the thermocouple slightly to navigate around the Air Nozzles. 

 

        

 


X. Reactor Lid

Note: There are many different Reactor lids with bungs in various places. These are all considered more or less the same component even though you may notice slight variations in the lid. 

  • Apply gasket to the top flange of the Reactor. 
  • The Reactor Lid will be bolted to the Hopper when you receive the GEK shipment. Undo the Reactor Lid from the Hopper.

 

      

 

  • Place the Reactor Lid on the Reactor and bolt in place using the 3/4'' x 5/16'' bolts and nuts.
  • Use the 1.5'' plug for the middle bung on the Reactor (you may want to drill a hole in this cap to pass a thermocouple through if you wish).
  • Use the ceramic clay to make a seal around the cover plate.
  • Attach the Cover Plate to the Reactor Lid. Place the two springs provided onto the threaded protruding bolts (not pictured) then use the wing nuts to hold the springs on top of the Cover Plate.

     

       

 

Note: In the following steps, the Hopper Barrel will replace the Reactor Lid. We recommend to first run the GEK with the Reactor Lid to get an idea of how the system works and an idea of the consumption rate of feed stock (every minute for the 10kW/3'' Reduction Bell sizes! The Hopper Barrel will be used to extend the run time without having to manually fill the Reactor. 

 


XI. Packed Bed Gas Filter

  • Cap the bottom 1.5'' bung and the .5'' bung at the bottom of the Gas Filter (The .5 inch bung is for recirculation options for a wet scrubber experimentation. The larger 1.5 inch bung is for draining condensate out of the drum filter).
  • Place the 1.5'' close nipple and 1.5'' plumbing 90 into the second bung from the bottom of the Gas Filter. This is the Gas Inlet Port. 
  • Place the Gas Filter Perf Disk with the stand-offs in the bottom of the filter (in some versions, the stand-offs are incorporated into the Gas Filter and the Gas Filter Perf Disk is a simple circular disk with no other additional components as stand-offs).
  • You can fill the Gas Filter with a variety of filter media.  Charcoal grains are likely the best, but wood chips, shredded hay, rice husks and other small biomass grains can work well.  Use organic material, which when spent, empty the material and add it back into the bulk feedstock at 10%. This recycling method prevents environmentally toxic wood tar from entering your local soil and water. 
  • Whatever material you use, we encourage you to do it in a layered manner. Start with a bed of larger pieces on the bottom grate, then progressively reduce the grain size as you fill towards the top.  Most of your media should be in the 1/8" size.  But we prefer to start with some 1/4-1/2" at the base, and end with sawdust grain sizes at the top.  Sawdust size pores are needed at the top to finish the filtering.  Basically you want as small as grains possible until you see the pressure drop across the filter get too larger.  Filter pressure drop should stay below 5" of H2O. 
  • Fill the drum housing with filter media to about 4" from the top.  Then hold it in place with a cloth or rag. This helps prevent the small grains from entraining with the gas flow at the end.

 

*GEK Version 4.3 and up: 

  • The GEK kit may have included Filter Foam Disks. These function by adding an oil to the foam mesh which helps trap smaller particulates while allowing for higher gas flows. Dip the Filter Foam Disks into clean motor oil and squeeze the excess out. Lay the finer mesh filter on top of the bulk filter media then stack the larger mesh filter on top with the second Gas Filter Perf Disk on the very top. 
  • To clean the Foam Filter Disks, use warm soap and water to wash them out. After they are completely dry, add another layer of clean oil.  

 

 

 

            

 

  • Hold the filter material in place with the second Gas Filter Perf Disk.  This disk should be about 2" below the top of the drum.  If you forget the disk, you can very easily pull the cloth or media up into the gas pipe.
  • Notice one of the top .5 inch bungs has threads on the top inside of the Gas Filter.  This is for the scrubber option.  For now place a cap on this one.  The other .5 inch bung at the top of the Gas Filter gets a brass barb and is where the Manometer tube will connect to detect the Gas Filter pressure.
  • The 2 ft tube with threads on one end will thread into the 90 at the bottom of the Gas FIlter. This is the Gas Inlet Port.
  • Use the hose clamp to attch the orange flex tube to the Gas Inlet Port. (Notice: condensation will tend to gather at this junction due to the direction of flow and temperature drop in this region, be sure to add high temperature sealant at this connection between the flex tube and the piping).
  • Connect the other end of the flex tube to the Cyclone.

 

       

 

*GEK Version 4.3 and up:

  • If your GEK kit came with the stainless steel flex lines for the Gas Lines, you will want to use the rubber coupler shown in the pictures below. 
  • Use the RTV sealant to attach the couplers to the flex lines.
  • Tighten the coupler around the 1.2'' plumbing fitting.
  • The plumbing T is attached as shown in the second picture to the connection at the bottom of the Gas Filter Drum using the quick disconnect flange. The plumbing plug on the T fitting will act as a condensation and clean out port for the Gas Line.
  • The Gas Filter Perf Disk will be with out legs and will sit on the notches inside the bottom of the Gas Filter.  

      

 

  • This method of connecting the Gas Lines will be the same for the connection with the Cyclone (if you have the GEK TOTTI, you will be connecting the gas line to the Auger/Drying Bucket instead of the Cyclone).
 

 

 

XII. Hopper Barrel

  • For the Basic GEK, the Hopper Barrel will attach on top of the GEK Reactor. For the Drying Bucket and/or Pyrocoil add-ons, you will need to refer to the GEK TOTTI Assembly page (if you have the TOTTI, this second barrel and monorator flange is extra! Feel free to use it as a Basic GEK set up).
  • The Monorator ring is the ring with the four tabs. This ring will slide down into the Hopper Barrel with the inner lip sticking upwards. Tilt the Hopper Barrel on its side, and attach the Monorator Ring using 4 of the shorter 5/16ths bolts on only the four outer tabs (not the inner row of bolt holes yet).
  • Once the Monorator Ring is attached in the inside of the Hopper Barrel, locate the sections of the Hopper Insert which are quarter sections of the cone shape. These will attach together creating a full cone that is set on top of the Monorator Ring at the bottom of the Hopper Barrel. 

 

 

     

 

  • Use the aluminum tape to attach the flow Hopper Insert to the edge of the walls making it as smooth and seamless as possible. Any gaps here will possibly allow the biomass to bridge in the Hopper Barrel. 
  • Place the Hopper on top of the Reactor. Now using the longer 5/16ths bolts, push the bolts through the bottom of the Reactor flange, and up through the Hopper Barrel into the threads of the Monorator Ring. Be sure to locate the threads loosely, before going around to tighten all of the bolts. Be sure NOT to strip these threads. Damaging these threads can allow air to enter the reaction at this point and cause combustion to move upwards into the feed stock in the Hopper Barrel. 
  • The 1.5'' bung on the Hopper Barrel Lid will be populated with the Puff Bung. This component has the orange silicone gasket with the wing nut and spring assembly. Screw this into the Hopper Barrel Lid. 

 

        

 

 

  *GEK Version 4.3 and up:

*GEK TOTTI: 

 

 

return to How to Build and Run the GEK Gasifier
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