GEK Wiki / Fabrication Instructions
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Fabrication Instructions

Page history last edited by jim mason 12 years, 10 months ago

return to How to Build and Run the GEK Gasifier 


Fabrication Instructions for v2.0 GEK

(For the v3.0 GEK, go to Fabrication Instructions for v3.0 kit)


Here are the complete instructions for fabricating all components of the v2.0 GEK gasifier system. These instructions assume you have a v2.0 GEK Level III kit, (not to be confused with the v3.0 GEK) and thus are in possession of the needed sheet metal, plumbing and accessory parts.  If you have a Level II sheet metal only kit, you'll need to acquire the following plumbing and accessory parts.  If you are building this from scrap obtainium tanks, or you own hand cut sheet metal, see the GEK v2.0 CAD drawings for needed dimensions.  Instructions for how to fight greasy, rust and propane impregnated, and otherwise annoying scrap tanks into the form of a gasifer are here.


The GEK gasifier system consists of the following seven components.  We will build each of these components separately, then bolt them together for the integrated unit.  We encourage you to build the components in the order presented below.   Also, following the order of individual instructions will keep you away from annoying critical path issues.  Yes, we realize instructions are annoying in themselves, but they are always less annoying than unwelding the wrongly welded . . .



Gas Cowling and Rotary Grate


Downdraft Reactor




Packed Bed Filter


Centrifugal Vac/Blower


Swirl Burner 





Once you have built all the components using the fabrication instructions above, you will use the Final Assembly Instructions to put it all together and prepare it for first fire.  Then you will use the How to Start and Run the GEK instructions to actually set the show in motion.  Please read these instructions.  They will save you many messy hassles.  Remember to always run your GEK outdoors, with good ventilation, and stay out of the smoke!



Fabrication Method and Standards


All GEK vessels are fabricated using the same three basic part types: vessel tubes, flange rings, and end plates.  Flange rings and end plates are welded on the ends of the cylindrical vessel tubes.  Flange rings are usually at the top of a vessel tube, and fit around the outside of the tube.  End Plates are usually at the bottom of a vessel tube, and fit inside the tube.


The circular flange rings and end plates also function as "jigs" to pull the vessel tubes to perfectly round for welding.  Tabs and slots on all vessels simularly index the pieces together and ensure an accurate finished product.  This system of “self-jigging” is central to the ease of building the GEK.  Somewhat like snapping together a puzzle you were actually meant to solve.


While following the step-by-step instructions below, be sure to remember these other common standards across the kit.

- All flange rings and end plates should be oriented such that the slag side is down.  (note: Oct GEK run needs the reactor bottom plate flipped so slag side up.  we made a mistake on this one)

- All vessel tubes are rolled such that the slag side is facing inward

- All vessel tube seams should be in the rear center of the vessel

- All large vessel tubes will have approximately 3/8" overlap at the seam joint.  This makes welding much easier than welding sheet edge to edge.  The smaller vessels (cyclone and swirl burner) will have 1/4" overlap at the seam

- Tabs and slots will give you the correct positioning.  But do be careful to center the first tab and slot so the others will come out correct.  See notes in below text for details.

- When welding flange rings and end plates, start with short stitches around the circle.  Do not do one long continuous weld or you will warp the flange. 



Painting the outsides of most of these components is a good weatherproofing measure, but pay very close attention to the photos in Level IV Assembly for what to paint and what NOT to paint- paint in the wrong places can burn, create mess and toxic fumes.







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