In the 1980 model year Oldsmobile 5.7-L diesel (Cutlasss), There was a controller which operated from senced water-jacket temperature. Output was: a timed pulse of two seconds duration on, two seconds off , pilot-operated a heavy solonoid switch very similar to the ubiquitous Ford starter switch. This pulsed cycling of the glowplugs ensured their correct operating temperature, until the engine reached operating temperature.

Being a solid-state black box, that used to be off the shelf, these would be ideal for gasifier light off duty.

I had a duiscussion last winter with a gentleman in the Netherlands whom strongly recommended using a retractable glowplug arrangement, to prevent damage to the element when the gasifier is operating. I would have the plug enter the hearth, near a nozzle to complete the fire-triangle for lightoff.

Either timed, or from a senced-temperature set-point, the assembly would be retracted radially to a safe-location.

Andrew Schofield
GL-RFS

"Gentleman in the Netherlands".... Just call me DJ!

Hey Andy!

Yes, I am using a glow plug for ignition of the hearth. After playing and experimenting a lot, because it is hard to ignite something in the open air with a glow plug. But not in a blasted charcoal environment. Just 10 seconds power on the plug, wait another 10 seconds untill pale blue smoke comes from the stack. Then pull the glow stick and plug the sonde tube.

The difficulty is the position of the sonde tube. It should enter the oxidation zone somewhere between nozzles and restriction, because that is the spot you want to ignite. Higher is not possible because there is no draft and less or no char. And igniting the reduction zone will take too much time to have the heat creeping up. I have two preheating mantles, so made the sonde tube in the bridge between the mantles. Some air leaking between tube and outer cowling mixes with preheated air.
For the GEK it will be challenging to add a sonde tube. Perhaps a sloped tube from above directed to the hearth, but not to long to avoid obstruction of wood. The pointed glowplug will find its way through the chips.

When pushing in the glow stick, there is almost no resistance of char. As if the oxidation zone is empty.

For a next setup I want to introduce a solenoid that pushes in the glow stick and pulls it way back after ignition. And a solenoid valve for the chimney. Start the whole thing from the drivers seat.

Regards,
DJ

Hi from Ireland been lurking for awhile.
Just to add to the glow plug theme. Most modern diesel glow plugs (indirect injected anyway) are 3v continious with 12v applied for 3-4 seconds to achive rapid heating to operating temp. then controller drops voltage to 3v to mantain at operating temp. this prevents Misfires while engine is still cold and prevents excess white smoke. system turns off after engine reaches set temp.
Another posssibility that could be used for initial ignition is to Use a a hot air Paint stripper to provide te inital heating to heat the wood to is flash point. this is what is used in most wood pellet burners.I have seen in Larger burners a modified Bosch paint stripper. while smaller burners like PELLEX /Iwabo/ use the own small heater cartridge.