GEK Wiki / Hopper
  • If you are citizen of an European Union member nation, you may not use this service unless you are at least 16 years old.

  • You already know Dokkio is an AI-powered assistant to organize & manage your digital files & messages. Very soon, Dokkio will support Outlook as well as One Drive. Check it out today!

View
 

Hopper

Page history last edited by jay 14 years, 1 month ago

6) Building the Hopper for GEK v2.0 & GEK v3.0

 

back to Fabrication Instructions for v2.0 kit

 

 

Parts needed:

     -30 gallon fuel drum

     -5/16" nuts (10 count)

     -5/16" x 5/8" bolts and 5/16" nuts or wingnuts for jigging

 

1. Weld nuts under lip of barrel

  • Start with a 5/16" x 5/8" bolt, and screw a nut on all the way up to the bolt head. Reach under the cut out lip of the barreltop and insert the shaft up through the bolt hole. Hold it in place with a wingnut on the top side.
  • Crawl into the bottom of the barrel deep enough to afford yourself enough reach with the welding gun, and carefully weld the NUTS, but NOT THE BOLTHEADS, to the underside of the barreltop. A quick weld on either side of the nut is plenty, no need for more.
  • Crawl out and remove the bolts and wingnuts

 

 

2. Drill holes in side

  • The Hopper needs 4 holes. Measure down 8" from the barreltop, and drill a 5/16" hole. Drill 3 more holes at equal distance from one another around the barrel, all 8" down from the top. From above, if you connected the drill holes visually it should form a perfect "+" or "x".

 

 

 

 

Comments (2)

Luc Gosselin said

at 3:22 am on Dec 25, 2008

This may be a stupid question, but how do the pellets flow from the hopper into the reactor? I would have imagined some sort of funnel into the reactor. Or am I looking at the hopper upside down? Also, what are the 4 5/16" holes on the side of the barrel used for?

Cheers,

Luc

Bruce Chovnick said

at 11:55 am on Dec 29, 2008

Luc,

The four holes are for four bolts with lock washers and nuts, facing outwards, to make a stud. You loop the end of a spring around the stud and stretch it up and over the top lip to hold the top tight.

As for feeding, I haven't used my hopper yet, but I believe you remove the reactor lid and put it aside when you have the hopper installed. If I am wrong, I hope someone corrects me.

Bruce

You don't have permission to comment on this page.